Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Margaret Fleming Nature Trail

Within the enchanting domain of the Torrey Pines State Park Extension lies a network of trails, each holding its own enigmatic charm. Yet, amid these captivating paths, one has consistently piqued my curiosity—the mysterious Margaret Fleming Nature Trail. What sets it apart, you might wonder? Picture this: as you embark on this trail, a series of numbered posts guide your journey, leading you through the winding canyon to the very foothills of Del Mar Heights Elementary School. What's most intriguing, however, is the cryptic nature of these numbered markers. Over time, any trail guides or explanations that might have unraveled their secrets have vanished into the annals of history. Join me on a journey of discovery as we delve into the enigma of these numbers and unlock their hidden stories.

History of Torrey Pines State Park Extension

2008 Extension Map
In the tumultuous era of the 1960s, the landscape of Del Mar Heights and Del Mar Terrace faced drastic changes as developers began flattening the once chaparral-covered hillsides. Their ambitious plans included carving out a network of roads and erecting a tapestry of houses, schools, and shopping centers. As the bulldozers roared to life, a growing concern echoed among local activists, notably champions like Gloria and Robert Bates. Their rallying cry, initiated as early as 1964, resounded in the defense of what was then known as Del Mar Canyon.

Environmentalists, sensing the urgency of the moment, rallied together swiftly to safeguard this precious 200-acre expanse of pristine canyonland that had remained untouched by development. Their passion was fueled by the knowledge that this swath of natural beauty held immense ecological significance.

By June of 1970, the collective efforts of these dedicated individuals had borne fruit. Through tireless fundraising and unwavering commitment, they had amassed sufficient resources to secure the future of an extension of Torrey Pines State Park. This pivotal achievement ensured the perpetual protection of not only the breathtaking landscape but also the 1,500 rare Torrey Pines trees that thrive exclusively in this small corner of San Diego, as well as on Santa Rosa Island just off the coast of Santa Barbara.

The Torrey Pines State Park Extension stands today as a testament to the power of grassroots activism and the enduring importance of environmental preservation. It serves as a sanctuary for the unique biodiversity of the region, safeguarding a vital piece of California's natural heritage for generations to come.

Who Was Margaret Fleming?

Margaret Fleming in 1966
Margaret Fleming, affectionately known as Peggy, holds a significant place in the history of Torrey Pines State Park, and her legacy is commemorated by the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail. She was the wife of Guy Fleming, who assumed the role of the park's first custodian back in 1921. This appointment came at the behest of the philanthropic Ellen Browning Scripps, who recognized the need for dedicated care of this pristine coastal sanctuary even before it gained official State Park status. Margaret, alongside Guy and their children, made their home at the Torrey Pines main lodge, a location that has since evolved into the park's headquarters and museum.

In many ways, the Flemings were pioneers of conservation and stewardship in the region, tending to the natural beauty that surrounded them long before it became a popular destination for nature enthusiasts. The Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, bearing her name, serves as a testament to her family's dedication to preserving the unique landscapes and biodiversity of this cherished park. As visitors walk along this trail today, they follow in the footsteps of those who contributed significantly to the preservation of Torrey Pines State Park, making it the treasured natural gem it is today.

Carol Mason's Brainchild

The intriguing numbered posts that grace the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail have a captivating history of their own. They owe their existence to the creative vision of Carol Mason (then Carol Rypinski), an esteemed teacher at Del Mar Heights Elementary School. Carol's passion for providing her students with a hands-on experience of nature led her to secure a grant, setting in motion the creation of this remarkable trail. Her vision was simple yet profound—to establish a trail where students could immerse themselves in the splendid world of flora and fauna, learning directly from Mother Nature herself.

Every enchanting journey under Carol's guidance began and concluded at the delightful Children's Amphitheater, gracefully nestled at the school's base. This amphitheater served as a gateway to the realms of education and adventure, effortlessly fusing the worlds of learning and the natural wonders of the great outdoors. Carol's unwavering commitment to hands-on teaching sessions meant that she personally led students through the secrets of the trail. The trail itself, designed by Ranger Rich Irwin, boasted over 22 meticulously chosen locations, each spotlighting a unique facet of the local environment. These lectures, delivered by a passionate and knowledgeable teacher, added an invaluable layer of insight and wonder to the exploration, enriching the experience for all who embarked on this educational adventure.


The 1978 Trail Guide by Jenni Huyler

With a desire to ensure that the beauty of this natural wonderland was accessible to the wider public, not just students, Carol and Jennie Huyler joined forces to create an indispensable trail guide readily available at the trailhead. This guide, artfully composed by Jennie Huyler, drawing inspiration from Carol's engaging trail tours, transcended the confines of a mere pamphlet; it evolved into a gateway to profound knowledge. Within its pages were comprehensive explanations for each numbered spot, providing all explorers, young and old, with a deeper insight into the captivating botanical and zoological wonders they would encounter along their journey.

In July 1978, the fruits of their labor culminated in the printing of the original trail guide, courtesy of the San Diego County Department of Education. This guide was not just a booklet; it was a key to unlocking the mysteries of the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail—an enduring legacy of educational innovation and appreciation for the world's natural wonders.

NOTE: Please be aware that I haven't been able to locate the original 1978 trail guide. However, through my research in various books, newspaper articles, and archived documents, I've come across references to certain numbers and have assembled a speculative draft of what the guide possibly contained.

Post #22: Coastal Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia littoralis)

Behold the splendid specimen before you, a magnificent Coastal Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia littoralis). As you admire this remarkable plant, it becomes evident why it thrives in the embrace of San Diego's benevolent climate. 



Yet, there's a captivating tale intertwined with this resilient cactus – a tale of agricultural prowess that once flourished in Lakeside.

Journey back to an era when this very region buzzed with the vibrant activity of prickly pear farming. Pioneering families, including the industrious Maniscalcos, turned this once-thorny wilderness into a tapestry of flourishing crops. Through their dedication and agricultural acumen, they harnessed the potential of these hardy cacti, leaving an indelible mark on Lakeside's historical landscape.



Commercial prickly pear farming prospered, primarily fueled by the need for cochineal dye, rather than the sale of the fruit itself. This vivid pigment, derived from the minuscule cochineal insects that inhabit the cactus, carried immense global importance, especially within the textile sector. With synthetic dyes gradually replacing cochineal in textiles, the prominence of prickly pear farming dwindled. By the mid-20th century, this once-flourishing industry had significantly receded from San Diego County, leaving an intriguing chapter in its agricultural history.

Post #18: Woodrat's Nest

Nestled beside a charming "tunnel" of laurel sumac as you ascend the canyon trail, cast your gaze to the right, and you'll spot a remarkable relic: an ancient woodrat's nest. At first glance, it may appear as a mere heap of dry, weathered sticks, but this unassuming mound holds secrets of nature's architectural ingenuity.

These nocturnal creatures, often referred to as pack rats, are the master builders behind these intricate structures. Imagine a rat's version of a luxurious mansion, complete with separate bedrooms, bathrooms, pantries, and nurseries. Woodrats are known for their meticulous construction skills, fashioning nests that stand as testaments to their resourcefulness.

Kumeyaay children hunted the woodrat by surrounding the nest, poking it with sticks, and capturing the animal with a forked stick. The rat was roasted and used to flavor shawii, acorn mash.

Venture deeper into the Extension, and you'll stumble upon more of these time-honored abodes, some dating back centuries. These nests provide a unique window into the enduring legacy of the wood rats and their harmonious coexistence with this captivating wilderness.

Post #17: Tree Poppies

As you continue your journey up the trail, an enchanting sight awaits those with a keen eye. To the right, amid the company of shorter but equally vibrant bush sunflowers, you'll discover the striking bright yellow blossoms of the tree poppy. These blossoms bring a touch of sunshine to the wilderness, captivating both your senses and curiosity.

Coulter's Matilija tree poppy (Romneya coulteri), known for its distinctive yellow blooms, is often found in areas that have undergone some form of disturbance, particularly after the regenerative embrace of a fire. This resilient plant thrives amidst change, reminding us of nature's enduring ability to rejuvenate and flourish under varying conditions.


Take a moment to appreciate this flourishing spectacle and contemplate the intricate balance of nature, where even disruption can lead to new beginnings and the blossoming of life's vibrant tapestry.

Post #16: Lilac Tunnel

As you traverse this section of the trail, you'll embark on a unique journey through a natural wonder known as the "Lilac Tunnel." This remarkable spectacle is a testament to the beauty and resilience of nature.

The Ceanothus cyaneus, also known as California lilac (or San Diego Mountain Lilac), creates a captivating canopy overhead with its lush, vibrant foliage. Its branches arch gracefully, forming an enchanting passage that invites you to explore further. During the blooming season, this tunnel bursts into a symphony of blues and purples, as the ceanothus proudly displays its clusters of delicate, fragrant flowers.

This tunnel of ceanothus is a sanctuary for various wildlife, providing both shelter and sustenance. Keep an eye out for fluttering butterflies and the gentle hum of pollinators as they go about their vital work. Pause for a moment to take in the soothing aroma of the ceanothus blossoms, a fragrance that adds to the sensory experience of your hike.

As you venture deeper into this natural tunnel, consider the resilience of these plants, thriving in a challenging environment. Nature's ability to adapt and flourish is on full display here, reminding us of the intricate beauty that can be found when we immerse ourselves in the great outdoors. Continue your exploration, and let the tunnel of ceanothus guide you to the next enchanting discovery along the trail.

Post #15: The Bee Plant

As you emerge from the verdant tunnel, your journey along the trail brings you to an intriguing resident of this ecosystem: the bee plant, aka California Figwort (Scrophularia californica). With its distinctive characteristics, it's a plant worth pausing to admire, even if its name may be somewhat misleading.

The bee plant, known for its large, toothed leaves and petite red blossoms, graces the landscape, especially in the spring when it's in full bloom. Despite its name, it's a curious observation that we seldom spot any bees hovering around it. Nature often has its mysteries and surprises, and this peculiar behavior, or lack thereof, adds to the enigma of the bee plant.

As you take a moment to inspect this unique flora, consider the intricate relationships that exist within this ecosystem. While it may not attract bees as its name suggests, the bee plant undoubtedly plays a role in the web of life here, providing sustenance or habitat for various other creatures. It serves as a reminder that there's always more to discover and understand in the natural world, and sometimes, the most unexpected aspects can be the most fascinating.

Post #14: Toyon and Spice Bush

As you continue along the trail, be sure to keep an eye out for two distinctive and intriguing native plants: toyon and spice bush. These unique additions to the local flora offer both beauty and intriguing characteristics.

Toyon, also known as California holly (Heteromeles arbutifolia), graces the landscape with its presence. In late fall, this remarkable plant adorns itself with vibrant red berries, creating a striking contrast against the greenery of the surrounding foliage. These berries, reminiscent of miniature holiday ornaments, are a vital food source for local wildlife during the winter months. As you spot toyon along the trail, take a moment to appreciate its contribution to the ecosystem, providing sustenance for the creatures that call this area home.

Another fascinating find in this region is the spice bush (Cneoridium dumosum), a native citrus plant unique to San Diego County. While its name might evoke images of exotic flavors, it holds a secret that some individuals should be aware of. The oil from this plant can cause hypersensitivity to the sun in certain people, making their skin more susceptible to its rays. It's a reminder of the intricate relationships between plants and humans and the varied reactions they can elicit.

If you look closely, the fruits of the spice bush resemble tiny oranges, showcasing nature's creativity in the diversity of its offerings. As you encounter these remarkable plants, take a moment to reflect on the intricate web of life that surrounds us, where each species plays a vital role in maintaining the delicate balance of our local ecosystem. Enjoy your journey along the trail, and keep an eye out for more captivating discoveries that await.

Post #12: Nature's Band-aid

Continuing along the trail, you'll encounter the enchanting presence of thickleaf yerba santa (Eriodictyon crassifolium), often referred to as the "holy herb." Its unique features make it a noteworthy addition to this vibrant ecosystem. Yerba santa's pale, fuzzy leaves, resembling small, natural bandages, have earned it this endearing nickname, showcasing the intriguing ways in which nature provides.

During the spring season, yerba santa undergoes a transformation, as clusters of delicate lavender flowers burst into bloom, adorning its otherwise unassuming and slightly ungainly appearance. This floral spectacle adds a touch of elegance to this remarkable herb, demonstrating nature's ability to balance both form and function.

Yerba santa's historical uses by indigenous peoples and its significance in traditional herbal medicine underscore its value as a plant with unique qualities. It was traditionally used by the Chumash people to keep airways open for proper breathing, and the leaves can be chewed like gum or made into a bitter tea. Take a moment to appreciate its contribution to this rich landscape, not just for its visual appeal but also for the cultural and medicinal significance it holds.

As you journey through this natural wonderland, remember that each plant, like yerba santa, has its own story to tell and a role to play in the intricate tapestry of life that surrounds you. Keep your senses attuned to the wonders of the trail, where every step reveals something new and extraordinary.

Post #11: Scrub Oak Stairwell

Ascend these wooden steps that mark a transition in your journey. As you climb, you'll leave behind the sheltering embrace of a dense strand of scrub oak (Quercus berberidifolia), venturing upward onto the sandstone ridge that guides you towards a mesa blanketed in the vibrant greenery of chamise.



Before you make your way onto the sun-drenched mesa top, take a moment to pause in the cool shade of the oak trees. Here, in this tranquil oasis, you'll find respite and an opportunity to catch your breath. Enjoy the gentle rustling of leaves overhead and the soothing play of dappled sunlight filtering through the branches.

As you prepare to leave this shady refuge, savor the serenity it offers, for it will be your final chance for a cool, refreshing rest before the warm embrace of the mesa top greets you. The journey ahead promises new vistas, discoveries, and the boundless beauty of nature, so continue your ascent with renewed energy and a heart filled with wonder.


The 2008 Trail Guide by Maryruth Cox

Around the year 2008, or perhaps a little earlier, the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail underwent a transformation. The original posts, which had faithfully guided countless nature enthusiasts through the beauty of the canyon, were replaced. This task was undertaken by a dedicated local Boy Scout Troop. Their efforts were not merely a routine replacement; they marked a pivotal moment in the trail's evolution.

1980 Aerial View

Over time, the trail's course had shifted slightly, with certain sections becoming overgrown and inaccessible. In response to these natural changes, the decision was made to adapt the trail to its evolving surroundings. The Boy Scout Troop took on this task with enthusiasm and commitment.

The outcome was a rejuvenated trail that featured ten strategically numbered spots. These spots were carefully selected to showcase the most captivating and educational aspects of the canyon's ecosystem. The trail was reborn, offering a fresh perspective on the natural world.

To complement this revitalized experience, a new trail guide was created, and it was authored by the capable hand of Maryruth Cox. This pamphlet, born from a deep appreciation for the trail's significance, was more than just a guide; it was a bridge connecting visitors to the wondrous mysteries of the canyon. It provided insightful explanations for each of the ten numbered spots, serving as a window into the intricate tapestry of the local flora and fauna.

The replacement of the posts and the creation of the new pamphlet marked a continuation of the trail's legacy—an ongoing commitment to nurturing a love for nature and education in the hearts of those who ventured along its winding path.

Post #10: Defying Drought Survivors

As you embark on your journey through the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, Post #10 stands as your first sentinel, welcoming you to the captivating wonders of the canyon. Nestled amidst the resilient dry brush, this post holds the key to understanding the remarkable survival strategies adopted by the tenacious plants in this remarkable extension of nature.

Here, you'll discover the secret to the flora's endurance in the face of extended drought—a testament to the remarkable adaptation of life to its surroundings. In the unforgiving embrace of this arid terrain, only rainwater serves as the elixir of life for the tenacious residents of the canyon.

Direct your gaze to the south of Post #10, and you'll find a splendid example of nature's ingenuity—the lemonadeberry plant. With leaves that possess a tenacious resistance to water loss, it proudly flaunts its emerald foliage even in the driest of seasons. But that's not the plant's only trick.

As July dawns upon the canyon, this resilient lemonadeberry plant unveils its dazzling virulent red berries. However, the allure of these berries extends far beyond their vibrant appearance. They are, in fact, cloaked in a special sticky substance, a gooey armor, if you will. This adhesive shield serves a crucial purpose—it aids the plant in conserving precious water, an invaluable resource in this parched land.

Post #10, with its informative insights, reminds us that even in the harshest environments, life finds a way to thrive. It's a testament to the extraordinary adaptability and resilience of nature, an enduring theme that echoes throughout the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail.

Post #9: Resilience in Flames: The Tale of The Fire Tree

In 1962, a tranquil neighborhood near the open lands north of Del Mar Terrace was suddenly disrupted by cries of "Fire! Fire!" The frantic shouts spurred neighbors into action, as they grabbed shovels and raced toward the source of the commotion. Not far behind, Maryruth Cox and her family piled into their trusty Austin sedan, four children leaning eagerly out of the windows - a time when seat belts were but a distant concept.

In those days, well before the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail existed, a rugged dirt road led from the terminus of Via Esperia, meandering across a plowed field before ascending the primary canyon toward Del Mar. The bumpy ride continued until the sight of flames in a side canyon came into view. Without hesitation, Chip Cox, clutching a shovel, leaped from the car and hurried to join neighbors in creating a firebreak around a massive Torrey pine anchored at the base of the ridge. Meanwhile, the children and their caregiver observed the unfolding events from the safety of their modest vehicle. Nearby, Carl Plank skillfully operated his bulldozer, diligently carving out a protective barrier along the mesa's summit. In the heart of the valley, a towering Torrey pine began to succumb to the relentless flames.

As the evening descended, the ferocious fire gradually waned. Miraculously, the majestic tree appeared relatively unscathed, prompting everyone to retreat to their homes for a well-deserved dinner. The following day saw the fire fully extinguished, but it had left an indelible mark on the land now known as the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail.

Remarkably, the towering tree that bore the brunt of the blaze still stands tall and proud at post no. 9. For years, charcoal-black scars marred its bark, serving as poignant reminders of the inferno's fierce assault. Today, the tree stands resolute and vibrant at its apex, though its lower branches have surrendered to the relentless embrace of the flames. Nearby, the resilient bush poppy, known to thrive after a fire, adds vibrancy to the upper reaches of the valley.

The story of post no. 9, The Fire Tree, serves as a testament to nature's resilience and the enduring spirit of the land, embodying the profound ability of life to emerge triumphant from the ashes of adversity. While the tree still stands as of 2023, the post itself recently disappeared. 

Post #8: Grass and Sandstone

The 8th post has been lost to time, in fact I don't remember ever seeing it. 



Post #7: Tree

TBD



Post #6: Linda Vista's Majestic Vista

As you continue your exploration of the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, make your way to Post #6, where an intriguing revelation awaits. Here, nature's geological artistry takes center stage, offering you a captivating glimpse of the rugged landscapes that define this enchanting canyon.

To the east of this post, a sweeping panorama unfolds—the distant horizon is adorned with a magnificent sight known as the "Linda Vista Formation." Translating to "Beautiful View" in Spanish, this geological marvel lives up to its name, commanding your attention as it graces the canyon's landscape.

The Linda Vista Formation, with its resplendent beauty, is a remarkable ridge composed of rich, red sandstone. This distinctive feature stands as a testament to the intricate tapestry woven by the forces of time and nature. It serves as a breathtaking contrast to the backdrop of the canyon, with its vibrant hues and striking texture.

Nestled beneath this awe-inspiring formation, you'll encounter the sturdy, bulky beds of yellowish-white Torrey Sandstone—a geological foundation that has witnessed the passage of countless ages.

Post #6 invites you to contemplate the grandeur of the natural world and reflect on the geological marvels that have shaped this land over millennia. It's a vivid reminder that as you tread through this sanctuary of nature, every step unveils a new chapter in the awe-inspiring story of our planet's geological history.

Post #5: TBD




Post #4: Nature's Perfumed Oasis

As you continue your enchanting journey along the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, Post #4 beckons you to pause and immerse yourself in a sensory delight—a realm where nature's aromatic symphony takes center stage.


At this tranquil post, still standing strong as of 2023, a captivating revelation awaits. The guidebook reminds you to savor the moment, for here, a unique feature of the landscape unfolds—no houses are visible from this serene vantage point. Instead, your senses are treated to a sensory feast that is pure, unspoiled nature.

As you stand amid the pristine wilderness, inhale deeply and savor the invigorating fragrance of the black sage that fills the air. Allow the scent to envelop you, a testament to the resilience of plants in arid climates. Alongside the black sage, the toyon graces this landscape with clusters of tiny white flowers—a delicate testament to the tenacity of life in this arid terrain.

In arid climates like Torrey Pines, plants have evolved unique survival strategies. They've developed strong, aromatic odors, which include the invigorating scents of California sage, black sage, and yerba santa, all of which thrive here. These pungent fragrances and vibrant blossoms are nature's way of competing for the attention of scarce pollinators. Unlike rainforests, where insects abound, Torrey Pines presents a different challenge, where plants must allure pollinators with both sight and scent.

As you explore this natural haven, take note of the scarlet larkspur, a brilliant red gem that graces the landscape during the summer months within the extension. This remarkable flower is a unique treasure of this area, not found in the main reserve, adding to the diverse tapestry of life that thrives in this remarkable ecosystem.

Post #4 invites you to appreciate the intricate balance of life in this arid paradise, where every element, from fragrance to flora, plays a vital role in the intricate dance of nature. It's a reminder that even in the harshest of environments, the beauty of adaptation and survival flourishes in the most unexpected ways.

Post #3: TBD

Estimated location of post 3 is on the east side of the trail just at the based of the stairs.






Post #2: Ascending to New Heights 
(old post #11)


As you ascend the rugged terrain of the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, you'll encounter a staircase that weaves its way through the lush, untamed wilderness. This staircase serves as your passage to the trail's zenith, promising breathtaking vistas and enchanting discoveries.



As you near the pinnacle of this captivating journey, you'll encounter Post #2—a sentinel that marks your progress and invites you to pause and reflect. Here, in the embrace of nature's grandeur, you'll find a sense of elevation not only in your physical ascent but also in your connection to the natural world.

Post #2 stands as a testament to the harmony between human endeavor and the unspoiled beauty of the landscape. The staircase, thoughtfully carved into the dense undergrowth, guides you with each step, offering a glimpse into the wonders that await at the trail's culmination.

As you continue your ascent, keep your senses attuned to the subtle changes in the environment. The rustling of leaves, the song of birds, and the gentle caress of the breeze—all serve as reminders that you are in the heart of nature's embrace.

Post #2 marks a moment of transition, where the trials of the climb are rewarded by the promise of panoramic views and the satisfaction of conquering a challenging trail. Here, the journey becomes a metaphor for life's uphill battles, with each step forward bringing you closer to your goals.

As you pass Post #2, take a moment to appreciate the synergy between human curiosity and the wild allure of nature. The staircase through the bush symbolizes your commitment to exploration and your willingness to venture into the unknown.

So, onward you go, on your ascent to the highest point of the trail, guided by the staircase and the wisdom of Post #2. With each step, you draw nearer to the culmination of your adventure—a summit where breathtaking vistas and the wonders of nature await to inspire and invigorate your spirit.


Post #1: The Absent Beginning

In the enchanting tale of the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, there exists a peculiar absence—a void at the very outset of your journey. You see, there is no Post #1. Once upon a time, it stood as a sentinel at the trail's inception, a silent guardian of the mysteries that lay ahead.

Old post on mesa plateau near the beginning of the trail

But alas, as the annals of time have unfolded, the trail's narrative has taken a turn. The path to Post #1, which once beckoned adventurers to embark on their quest into the heart of nature's wonders, has been sealed off. That chapter of the trail, once vibrant with the footfalls of curious souls, is now veiled in solitude, its secrets hidden from those who follow in the footsteps of its legacy.

Possible location of Post #1 at closed vista point?

The closure of this section of the trail serves as a poignant reminder that nature, like life itself, is subject to change and evolution. What was once accessible may, over time, become a sanctuary for the flora and fauna that call this wilderness home.

As you venture forth on the Margaret Fleming Nature Trail, know that your journey begins with an absence, a missing piece in the puzzle of its existence. Embrace the mystique of this void, for it is a testament to the ebb and flow of time, the delicate balance between exploration and preservation.

In the absence of Post #1, let your imagination roam freely, envisioning the stories and wonders that may have once graced this hallowed ground. And as you walk in the footsteps of those who came before, cherish the moments of discovery that await, for it is the essence of the trail itself that beckons you to explore, to wonder, and to be captivated by the ever-changing tapestry of the natural world.

Post #1 could have been anywhere on the mesa top

The Amphitheater

The 1980 view shows the location of the Amphitheater at the base of the school. The location is no longer accessible by trail, and is completely overgrown and off-limits. 




Sources


Thursday, March 3, 2022

Polka Music At Little Bavaria in Del Mar Terrace

 

1950 Terrace Inn

I first heard rumors of a German restaurant in the Torrey Pines area a few years ago. Apparently it was quite a hit, and there was a house polka band that played while large amounts of beer were served.  I searched the entire internet in vain, and finally found this postcard on eBay. 


Doing a bit more searching, I tried my luck with the names Franz Schermann and Ludwig Liebwein that were on the postcard. Bingo!  That's where some great history started to reveal itself. 

Polka Festival, 1957 Rendezvous Record RLP 1304

Franz Schermann and the Alpiners

The Alpiners were organized in the spring of 1950 when Franz Schermann and his father-in-law, Louis Liebwein, leased a defunct outlying dance hall known as Terrace Inn. This unlikely location in Del Mar Terrace (20 miles from downtown San Diego) had been the undoing of four former dance bands who were unable to attract a crowd. At first a few stragglers dropped by and the general opinion of those in the tavern business in San Diego was that the Dutchman had "flipped his lid." It was foreseen that the Alpiners would be the strongest drawing musical act ever to play in San Diego county. 

The few dancers who dropped by at the start were thrilled with the music of the little German band and they told their friends. Soon the crowds came in ever-increasing numbers. It was word-of-mouth praise that brought them. There was no money for advertising or promotion in those days. An admission charge was put on but this did not slaken the surge of pleasure-seekers who came each week end. By 1952 they were turning them away. In 1954 a record manufacturer who lived in Del Mar signed them to a contract and production was started on a series of recordings which have been proclaimed by fold dance teachers of wide reputation to be the absolute tops in authentic music for European dance routines. 

Special dances done to the Alpiners music have been designed by nationally known teachers including Ronnie and Stu Lipner of Sunnyside, N.Y.; Milly von Koonsky of Berkeley; and Elizabeth Ullrich of San Diego. 

During 1955 the name of the Terrace Inn was changed to Little Bavaria and the capacity of the place was doubled. The wise ones predicted that the intimacy of the place would be lost and the crowds would dwindle. Again they had under-estimated the power of the little German band, for the people came in larger numbers and soon they were having overflow crowds. 

In 1956 several state universities included the dance records by the Alpiners in the curriculum of the audio-visual department and the playing of their zestful Bavarian melodies became text material. 

Franz is dedicated to the idea that an ever-increasing audience can by reached by never changing his style. He works out his arrangements from the traditional European music taught to him by his grandmother. The Alpiners have become perfectionists with the Waltz, Landler, Schottische, Oberek, Gallop, March, Hambo, Maruska, and Polka. 

Before joining together as the Alpiners in 1950 Franz, who plays the accordion, George Gale, clarinet and sax, and L. E. Lantz, tuba; had all established considerable renown for their artistry. Franz played with The Village Tavern Band in Buffalo, N.Y. and had his own radio program over Station WHAM at Rochester, New York.

George Gale played with the theater orchestras for musical shows along Broadway for many years of his youth and went on tour with circuses during the summer off-season for shows along the big tent. Sitting in the circus bands sometimes playing over 200 tunes during a performance had a part in developing his terrific versatility. Soon after moving to San Diego, George became leader of the Moose Dutch Band and clarinetist with the San Diego Symphonic Band, a civic musical organization. Also playing with these two bands was a long-legged fellow who tooted a real hot tuba, L. E. Lantz. 

So Franz Schermann, George Gale, and Lantz, still playing as one after seven years, are drawing customers to Little Bavaria from every state in the United States and are making records which are the most played on beer tavern juke boxes

Notes from the back cover by Oliver H. Williamson, 1957

Listen to the Music of Franz Schermann and the Alpiners

If you are interested in time travel, close your eyes and imagine you are sitting at a table in Little Bavaria with a beer stein in your hand as you click on these links:

These songs have been digitized from their original 78 rpm vinyl discs, and feature all the authentic pops and hisses that we've completely forgotten about in this new digital age. 

Other songs the Alpiners recorded that I couldn't find by them, so any links are to other groups doing the same song:
The Edelweiss Dancers in 1964

The Tuesday edition of the Escondido Daily Time-Advocate on February 4, 1964 featured a great profile on the Edelweiss Dancers that entertained the folks at Little Bavaria every Saturday night. 


Dancing Polka For Fun Opens Door To Entertainment World
By Marilyn Ebeling, Times-Advocate Society Editor

It's just another polka, like any other polka, but oh, what a change in the pace — the pace of the watusi, twist and surfers' stomp.

Unlike many teenagers of the modern age, several Escondido youths have found fun and delight in the polka, the schottische and other dances of Germany. 

Curt Flynn, Florence and John Blodgett, all students at Palomar College, and Susie Hartshorn, senior at Escondido High School, together with Mr. and Mrs. Jim Ingham of Cardiff, have organized the Edelweiss Dancers. Now in their eighth month of dancing together, this group rehearses Sunday afternoons and Tuesday evenings. 

Edelweiss is the German word for a small perennial herb of the aster family which grows high in the Alps. Edel means noble and weiss means white. 

Flynn is the son of Mr. and Mrs. Curtis W. Flynn. Mr. and Mrs. John Blodgett are parents of John and Florence Blodgett and Susie Hartshorn is the daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Carl Hartshorn. All Escondido residents. These four youths are the official dancers but others fill in the group.

Interest Began In HS

Other dancers, all Escondidans, are Judy Grabler, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. John Grabler; Beth Haley, daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Edgar Haley; Dan Winkler, so of Dr. and Mrs. David Winkler; Sharon Heidrich, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Fred Heidrich; Larry Hagen, son of Mr. and Mrs. Larry R. Hagen; Pancho Miller, son of Mr. and Mrs. Ted Miller, and Alan Dawson, son of Mr. and Mrs. Larry Dawson. 

Jim Ingham and his wife, Ann, are the instructors and join in with the Escondido youths, who became interested in the German dances while at Escondido High School. It was about three years ago, when the youths discovered they had a mutual interest in dances of Germany. They all were members of the German Club which was formed in 1961 at EHS.

The Escondido youths who began dancing the polka for fun, found that the Little Bavaria Restaurant in Del Mar lent the appropriate atmosphere for "kicking their heels." 

Now Entertain

Franz Scherman, owner of the establishment, noticed the frolicking youths and after several visits by them, asked them if they would like to entertain at the restaurant. They now perform every other Saturday in Del Mar, and are called upon to entertain at private parties and have danced for a number of benefit programs. Scherman and his Alpiners provide music for the Edelweiss Dancers when they perform at Del Mar. 

The dancers are planning to entertain at the Friday American Field Service benefit dinner which will be held at the Little Bavaria. The event is open to the public and dinner tickets are being sold at Escondido High School and by AFS students.

Sponsored Annually

The Event is sponsored annually be the adult chapter of the Escondido AFS to enable students from foreign countries to come to the Escondido area to live and study with a local family for one school year. 

It is fitting that a German theme will be carried out at the dinner and that Escondido High School affiliates will entertain for the benefit. 

What began with an interest in learning more about Germany, in addition to the language studied at high school, has developed into a fun and perhaps profitable business for the youths. They will appear on a San Diego television show at 11:30 p.m. Wednesday. And, it is "in the mind" that the dance group may be Las Vegas bound.

Kicking Their Heels

Well, if you were wondering why they keep saying "kicking their heels" here's Bobby Burgess and Cissy King dancing the polka on the Lawrence Welk Show in 1968 to The Clarinet Polka — a favorite at Little Bavaria. 


Yes, indeed there is a lot of heels kicking! 

The Death of Franz in 1966

Franz J. Schermann died in 1966 at the age of only 44.  His widow Josephine remarried and continued the business for many years. 

Friday Night Big Band Dancing in 1976

Scanning through old newspapers, I found this 1976 advertisement for Little Bavaria announcing that The Big Band Is Back!  The Willard-James Orchestra. 



1982 The Last Days of Little Bavaria

I'm still looking into what the last days of Little Bavaria were, but everything points to 1982. Franz's wife Josephine A. Coke (who married Paul Coke in 1967 after Franz's untimely death) was still one of the owners of the restaurant upon her own death on 20 January 1982 in Alpine, California. Her parents were co-owners, with her mother Josephine Niens Liebwein passing away on 9 November 1982. That left a heart-broken Ludwig Liebwein as the sole proprietor.  1982 was a tough year for him, and I suspect that's when Little Bavaria shut down.  Ludwig lived 16 more years and died at the age of 96 in Vista on 11 September 1998. 

Memories of Del Mar Terrace

On February 27, 1997 Bonnie ZoBell wrote an excellent article about The Terrace Rats: A Feral Childhood in Del Mar in the San Diego Reader. I include a short excerpt of her memories of Little Bavaria here. 

The Little Bavaria was probably the best-known Terrace establishment ever. Known not only in San Diego but up and down the West Coast, people drove great distances from the ’50s through the 70s to dine and dance there. Patrons ordered German beer before it became popular in the United States, and for dinner they were treated to knockwurst, sauerbraten, and Wienerschnitzel, all cooked up by the Sherman family, who lived on the premises. Grandma Sherman was the head chef. There were also Grandpa Sherman, Franz Sr., his wife Josephine, and Frankie Sherman. Big Sam worked the parking lot parking cars for some years. He never brought the Chihuahuas with him, but he’d set up his metal chair right at the entrance of the lot and sometimes Goodman and the other kids talked to him there too. Sometimes he’d have his radio going.

The Bavaria boasted the largest dance floor in all of North County; people who didn’t even dance somehow found themselves out there doing the polka. Poor Frankie Sherman had to wear lederhosen when he was working, a fact the Rats of course needled him about, the same way all of them were needled about their quirks and peculiarities. Later, when Frankie was in his early teens, he joined his uncles and his father in becoming a part of the Alpiners, an oompah-pah band that played at the Little Bavaria nightly.

One of the Rats’ favorite dares was sneaking across the dance floor and out the other side of the Little Bavaria at lunch time, before Mr. Sherman could catch them. It was also a great treat to go in for lunch and get to order a hamburger and a Coke for themselves. If only life in the Terrace could have stayed that simple.

In 1980, after first Grandma and then Franz Sr. died, the Bavaria was sold and stopped being the Little Bavaria. First it was a rock-and-roll club. Then it was a country and western bar. Now the building has been broken up and is used as office space.

1983 C.W.'s

By 1983, Little Bavaria was no more and various country and rockabilly bands were passing through C.W.'s at the former site. 

1984 Del Mar Cattle Company

In 1984, the dance hall was remodeled for country music, which didn't last very long.  A few notable appearances include:
  • 19 April 1984 - Private showing of the Showtime country music video concert "Star Spangled Country Party" at the newly remodeled Del Mar Cattle Company by Luckenbach Productions and Primavera Video
  • 3 May 1984 - "Saturday, Country crooner Michael Murphy returns to North County, this time to the Del Mar Cattle Company (former Little Bavaria, C.W.'s, etc.). Murphy has a magnificent voice, and he is an entertainer in every sense of the word." 
  • 10 May 1984 - "On Sunday, Country singer Joe Stampley will be joined by local band Stampede for a concert at the Del Mar Cattle Company on Carmel Valley Road"
  • 31 May 1984 - "The Del Mar Cattle Co. hosts live country with Stampede tonight through Monday"
  • 7 June 1984 - "Stampede does the country at the Del Mar Cattle Co... Friday through Sunday, then on Monday, White Lightning opens a two-night set at the Del Mar Cattle Co. with country tonight." 
  • 26 July 1984 - "Cowpoke Jimmy Cribbs and the Cotton Band will be at the Del Mar Cattle Company to play every song David Allan Coe ever wrote..."
  • 2 Aug 1984 - Jimmy Cribb and the New Cotton Band  
  • 13 Sept 1984 - featured the band Alaska for a weekend
  • 11 Oct 1984 - Alaska
  • 8 Nov 1984 - Alaska
  • 13 Dec 1984 - Alaska

1986 Conversion to Offices

Sometime around 1985 or 1986 the original dance hall building was converted into at least three small offices to be rented out.  The "new" extension from 1955 continued to be a restaurant, and is in fact still a restaurant to this day, albeit not the same one through the years as you'll see in the next sections. 

1987 Villa D'Este

From 1987 to 1993, 2282 Carmel Valley Road was the home to Villa D'Este Italian restaurant.  

The Good at Villa d'Este Is Enough to Overshadow the Pretense. Besides the name, about all that the Italian Villa d'Este and the Del Mar restaurant have in common is a view of the water. — LA Times, Dec 17, 1987


Villa d'Este closed sometime after December 17, 1993, as they were still running newspaper ads at that time. 

1994 Alpine Haus

Going back to its German roots, in February 1994 a new restaurant opened in the former Little Bavaria location. The old familiar smells of spaetzle, fennel gratin, sauerkraut, and bratwurste filled the air. Just like old times. Well, it lasted all of eight months until September when it went bankrupt and notices were placed in the local papers as their assets were sold off. However, on April 27 1994 the North County Times reviewed it, so we know that it was indeed there! 
Apr 1994 review in North County Times

1994 The Potato Shack

It's interesting what you find when you search just for an address like "2282 Carmel Valley". I found this October 28, 1994 review of The Potato Shack in the North County Times. I've certainly never heard of a Del Mar location for The Potato Shack before, probably because it certainly wasn't there very long. Just a couple months later it closed.


It turns out that the original Encinitas location is still in business, and has been since 1983... so if you are curious, you can visit them and find out what all the fuss was about.  I mean the place is always busy, and has been for almost 40 years! 
Oct 1994 review in North County Times

1995 The Falcon Pub

Another new one on me.  Here's the grand opening advert for The Falcon Pub, March 17, 1995. Boom boom boom, three new restaurants in the span of about a year. All in the same location, and all long gone. 

1996 Nugent's Seafood Grille

From 1996 to 2005 or so, the location was Nugent's, a steak and seafood restaurant owned by Ron Nugent. I'm trying to pinpoint the exact opening date. The first sign I've seen of it in old newspapers is 1999, so perhaps that's the date instead of 1996. I found one reference that Nugent's was incorporated in 1992, but that would have had to have been at a different location. 
2002 Nugent's Seafood Grille advertisement

I seem to remember that after Nugent's closed, there was a fairly lengthy vacancy until Eda-Mami opened, so it's possible that Nugent's closed in 2004 or before. 

2006 Eda-Mami Japanese Cuisine

It seems like Eda-Mami was open for a short time, but it was actually open from 2006 to 2014. Wow, times flies!

Eda-Mami serves Japanese style sushi with innovative and delicious twists made by our creative and talented Sushi Chefs. Our Kitchen Chefs work diligently to provide fulfilling meals from yellowtail collar to nabeyaki udon. A variety of wine, champagne, sake and beer pair nicely with our fresh fish and delicious entrees. You are in for a treat. Join and us for the Eda Mami Experience. We're sure you'll love it.

2015 Seasalt Del Mar Seafood Bistro

Salvatore Ercolano opened the Italian-inspired Seasalt seafood restaurant in mid-February 2015. He included sushi on the menu to keep the previous Eda-Mami customers happy.  

While seafood takes center stage at Seasalt Del Mar, there are plenty of other alternatives, from chicken and steak entrees to salads, soups and sliders. Some of the notables are the Roman Style Artichokes sautéed with olive oil and garlic, and sprinkled with basil and parsley; and The Seasalt Salad with baby spinach, chopped Belgian endive, sliced beets, sliced apples and crumbled cranberry goat cheese, with a white wine balsamic vinaigrette.


Then and Now

The Terrace Inn, later Little Bavaria Restaurant was at the corner of Sorrento Road and Fir Street. Good luck finding those roads today, because they have been renamed since 1950.  The building is still there and in good shape at the corner of Carmel Valley Road and Via Cortina. The first dance hall building was originally built and owned by building contractor Carl Hugo Andersen of Escondido (1902 - 1977). 

1953

1964

2022

So, originally the dance hall was one single long building that looked like this from the main road.

Terrace Inn in 1950

And here's what the expanded building looks like today. You can still make out the long barn on the far side, with the 1955 expansion right next to it in the foreground. 

Sea Salt in 2022

Here's another view taken from Via Cortina which shows what the original building looks like today.  It has been updated a bit, but the basic long bar shape is clearly the same building. 
Side of Seasalt in 2022

Linda's Polka Party Band

We'll leave you here with Linda Herman leading her band on the accordion at the Farmer & Seahorse Restaurant in Torrey Pines in 2017. I'm not sure if there is any connection with Little Bavaria, but the second song they play is a great rendition of the Clarinet Polka —one of the songs recorded by Franz Schermann and the Alpiners